What a Scroll Saw Blade Is
A scroll saw cuts intricate curves and fine detail in wood, plastic and some thin metals. Its blade is a short, thin strip of steel held under tension in a frame and moved up and down. The saw itself is a bench-top machine with an arm that holds the blade above and below a flat table. Choosing the right blade has a large effect on how clean and controllable the cut is.
Pin-End vs Plain-End
Scroll saw blades come with two main end styles:
- Pin-end: a small cross-pin at each end locks into the saw’s clamps. These are easier to install, but need a larger entry hole for interior cuts, which limits very fine fretwork. Some older or entry-level saws accept only pin-end blades.
- Plain-end: straight ends held by clamps. They fit through smaller drilled holes and come in finer sizes, which suits detailed work, but they need a saw with suitable clamps.
Always check which style your saw accepts. Some saws take both, and adapters exist for others.
Common Tooth Styles
- Skip tooth: every other tooth is omitted, giving room to clear sawdust. A common all-round choice that runs cooler and is often recommended to beginners.
- Double tooth (double skip): pairs of teeth followed by a gap, cutting somewhat slower but often leaving a smoother edge.
- Reverse tooth: the lowest few teeth point upward so they cut on the upstroke, reducing tear-out on the underside of plywood and similar stock.
- Crown tooth: teeth cut on both strokes, which helps reduce tear-out and is sometimes used on delicate materials.
- Precision ground: teeth are ground rather than stamped, producing a sharp, straight cut.
- Spiral: a blade twisted into a spiral so it cuts in every direction without turning the workpiece. Handy for intricate patterns, though the cut is typically rougher and wider.
Spiral Blades With Pins?
Spiral blades are mostly sold as plain-end blades. Availability of pinned versions varies by brand and size, so check the product listing for your saw’s clamp type before buying.
Blade Size and Thickness
Makers describe sizes with numbers, commonly from very fine through to large (often written #2/0 up to #12 or higher). Smaller numbers tend to mean finer, thinner blades with more teeth, suited to thin stock and tight detail. Larger numbers are thicker and coarser for thicker wood. Systems differ slightly between manufacturers, so use the packaging as the guide.
A practical rule of thumb is to keep several teeth engaged in the material at once, much as with other saws, and to move to a finer blade when you need less chipping.
Choosing by Material
| Material | Typical direction |
|---|---|
| Thin plywood or veneer | Fine blade, reverse tooth to limit tear-out |
| Softwood | Skip tooth, medium size |
| Hardwood | Finer, sharper blade, slower feed |
| Plastics and acrylic | Blades rated for plastic, slow feed to avoid melting |
| Thin non-ferrous metal | Blades rated for metal only |
These are general starting points; consult the blade maker for specifics.
Breakage and Tension
Scroll saw blades are thin and break easily. Common causes are too much tension, forcing the cut, twisting the workpiece sharply, or using a blade that is too fine for the thickness. Set tension as the saw manual describes and let the blade do the cutting. Wear eye protection and a dust mask.
Scroll saw blade teeth follow the same logic as other saws. The saw blade tooth types guide explains the broader terms, and the bandsaw blade types article covers a larger machine that also cuts curves.
FAQ
Which scroll saw blade is best for beginners? A medium skip-tooth blade is a common suggestion.
Are there different circular saw blades? Yes, but those are a separate topic. See the tooth types guide linked above.