The Short Answer
Bandsaw blades are mainly sorted by three things: tooth style (regular, skip or hook), material (carbon steel, bi-metal, carbide-tipped) and size (width and teeth per inch, or TPI). If someone asks for the “three types of bandsaw blades,” they usually mean the three tooth styles. For general wood cutting, a medium-width blade with a skip or regular tooth is a common starting point.
Tooth Styles
Regular Tooth
Evenly spaced teeth with a shallow gullet and no forward hook. Regular teeth give a smoother finish and suit thin material, finer cuts, and many metals.
Skip Tooth
Teeth are spaced further apart, with every other tooth effectively missing, creating large gullets. Skip blades clear sawdust well, which helps in softer woods and when cutting thicker stock. The finish is usually a bit rougher than with regular teeth.
Hook (Claw) Tooth
Teeth lean forward, giving an aggressive bite and deep gullets. Hook blades are often used for resawing and for thick or hard material, but they can feel grabby and need a firm hold on the workpiece.
Blade Materials
- Carbon steel: common and affordable for general woodworking, though it can dull faster.
- Bi-metal: a flexible backing with a harder tooth edge, often used for metal and for longer life.
- Carbide-tipped: much longer lasting and often chosen for resawing, abrasive material or heavy use, at a higher price.
Width and Cutting Radius
A narrower blade turns tighter curves but is harder to keep straight. A wider blade tracks straighter and resists drift, which is better for resawing and long straight cuts. As a general guide, narrow blades suit curves and wide blades suit straight cuts. Your saw manual lists the blade lengths and widths it supports, so check that first.
TPI and the 3-Tooth Rule
TPI is the number of teeth per inch. Lower TPI cuts faster and clears more waste, while higher TPI cuts smoother and slower. The commonly quoted 3-tooth rule says that at least three teeth should be in contact with the material at all times. With fewer than that, the teeth can catch and strip, or the blade may be damaged. It follows that thin stock calls for higher TPI and thick stock for lower TPI.
Wood vs Metal
Wood blades usually have larger gullets and lower TPI to clear chips. Metal blades typically have finer teeth, often bi-metal, and the saw is run at a slower speed, sometimes with lubricant or coolant. A blade intended for metal is generally not a good choice for thick wood because the gullets clog. Use blades rated for the material and follow your saw’s speed guidance. Metal-cutting bandsaws differ in design from most woodworking bandsaws, so confirm yours is suitable before cutting metal.
Best Blade for Wood by Job
| Job | Typical choice |
|---|---|
| General cutting | Medium width, skip or regular tooth |
| Tight curves | Narrow blade, higher TPI |
| Resawing | Wider blade, hook or skip, low TPI, sometimes carbide |
| Thin or delicate stock | Regular tooth, higher TPI |
These are common starting points rather than fixed rules.
What About T-Shank and U-Shank?
Those terms normally refer to jigsaw blades, not bandsaw blades. Bandsaw blades are continuous loops with no shank, so shank types are not a concern here. Whether a jigsaw blade fits depends on the saw’s blade clamp, so check the saw’s manual.
Fitting and Care
Pick the correct length for your saw, set tension and tracking following the manual, and keep guides adjusted. Release tension when the saw will sit unused for a long time if the manufacturer recommends it. Always unplug the saw before changing blades and wear eye protection.
For tooth shapes beyond bandsaws, see the saw blade tooth types guide. Scroll saws use much finer blades; see scroll saw blade types.
FAQ
What type of bandsaw blade is best for wood? There is no single best. A medium-width skip or regular tooth blade covers many tasks.
Can I resaw with a narrow blade? It is generally not advised, as narrow blades tend to wander in thick stock.