Chainsaw chain types at a glance
Chainsaw chains are usually described in three ways: the size that must fit your saw (pitch, gauge and drive links), the cutter shape (chisel, semi-chisel, chipper), and the arrangement of cutters on the chain (full complement, semi-skip, full skip). Specialist chains, such as low-kickback and carbide-tipped, add further variations.
Match the chain to your saw first
No cutter style helps if the chain does not fit. Three measurements must match your saw’s guide bar and sprocket:
- Pitch: the distance between rivets, commonly 1/4 in, 3/8 in low-profile, .325 in and 3/8 in, with .404 in on some larger saws.
- Gauge: the thickness of the drive links where they sit in the bar groove, often .043, .050, .058 or .063 in.
- Drive link count: the number of links that sit in the bar groove, which depends on bar length.
The saw’s manual or a stamp on the bar usually lists the correct specifications. If the details are unclear, take the old chain or the bar to a dealer. Chains are not universally interchangeable.
Cutter styles
Full chisel cutters have square corners. They cut quickly in clean wood and are often chosen by experienced users, but they tend to dull faster in dirt or hard conditions and are generally considered more demanding to sharpen and use.
Semi-chisel cutters have rounded corners. They typically stay sharp longer and cope better with dirty, frozen or hard wood, at the cost of somewhat slower cutting. For many homeowners this is the sensible default.
Chipper and micro-chisel cutters are more rounded again. They are generally described as forgiving and durable, and are sometimes used on saws sold for occasional use. Brands vary in what they call these designs, so check the maker’s description.
Low-kickback chains
Low-kickback chains include design features, such as guard links, that are intended to reduce the chance and force of kickback. They are common on saws sold to homeowners. They may cut more slowly than a standard chain. They reduce risk but do not remove it, so safe technique still matters.
Chain arrangement
- Full complement (standard): a cutter on every other link position, giving smooth cutting. Common on most saws.
- Semi-skip: fewer cutters than a full complement.
- Full skip (skip tooth): the fewest cutters. Because there are fewer teeth, it needs less power to pull, which makes it used on longer bars and in bigger cuts. It can cut less smoothly than a full complement chain.
Cutter materials
Standard chains use chrome-plated steel cutters. Carbide-tipped chains are marketed for abrasive or dirty wood, such as demolition or contaminated timber, and cost more. They are harder to sharpen at home and usually need specialised equipment.
Which chain for which job
| Situation | Often suggested |
|---|---|
| Occasional home use | Low-kickback or chipper type |
| General firewood, mixed wood | Semi-chisel |
| Clean softwood, experienced user | Full chisel |
| Long bar, big cuts | Skip tooth |
| Dirty or abrasive wood | Semi-chisel or carbide-tipped |
Keep the chain sharp and correctly tensioned whichever type you choose. For other tools used around trees, see tree cutting tools and their names.
FAQ
What type of chainsaw chain cuts the best? Full chisel chains are generally regarded as the fastest in clean wood, but “best” depends on conditions and skill.
What chainsaw chain do professionals use? Many professionals use chisel-type chains and keep them sharp, though choices vary by task and region.
What is the advantage of a skip tooth chain? Fewer cutters means less drag, so it suits longer bars or less powerful saws, with a rougher cut.
What is the most aggressive chain? Full chisel is usually considered the most aggressive, and also less forgiving.