Planning and layout tools
A fence is easiest to build when the line is straight and the posts are marked before anything is dug. Typical layout tools:
- Tape measure or measuring wheel for the fence line and post spacing
- Stakes and string line to mark a straight line between corner or end posts
- Marking paint or flags for post locations
- Level and post level for checking that posts are plumb
Before you dig, check where your property line is and ask your local authority about permits, height limits and setbacks. In many places you are also expected to have underground utilities located before digging. Check the rules where you live.
Digging and setting posts
- Post hole digger (manual). A clamshell-style digger with two handles works in softer soil and for a modest number of holes.
- Digging bar and shovel. A digging bar breaks up hard or rocky ground and helps loosen stones. A narrow shovel clears loose soil.
- Power auger. A gas or battery auger, often rented, saves effort when digging many holes or working in tougher soil. It can kick or bind on rocks and roots, so follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions and use a model suited to your strength.
- Tamper. Compacts gravel or soil around the post.
- Wheelbarrow and mixing tub for concrete or gravel, plus a hose or water source if you mix concrete.
Posts can be set in concrete, in compacted gravel, or driven. The best choice depends on the fence type, soil, climate and local practice.
Post driver alternatives
A post driver is a heavy tube with handles that is slid over a steel post and lifted to drive it down. It is mainly used for metal T-posts and some round posts. If you do not have one, common alternatives include:
- Digging a hole and setting the post in gravel or concrete, which is the normal approach for wood posts
- A sledgehammer with a driving cap or block to protect the top of the post and drive it in. Wear eye and hearing protection, and use care when swinging overhead.
- Renting or borrowing a driver for a long run of steel posts
Do not drive a wood post with a bare hammer, as the top will split.
Cutting and framing tools
- Circular saw or miter saw for cutting rails and pickets to length
- Reciprocating saw for trimming posts to a consistent height after setting
- Handsaw for small adjustments
- Chainsaw only if you are comfortable using it safely, such as for clearing branches along a fence line
- Spacing blocks or jigs to keep picket gaps and rail heights uniform
For more on how these cutting tools fit into general building work, see our overview of carpenter tools.
Fastening panels and pickets
- Cordless drill and impact driver with exterior-rated screws, which hold well in outdoor wood
- Framing or fence nailer if you have a compressor or a cordless nailer, which speeds up nailing pickets
- Hammer and pry bar for adjustments
- Clamps to hold rails in place while fastening
Use fasteners rated for outdoor use and suitable for your wood, since pressure-treated lumber can corrode ordinary fasteners.
Wire and specialty fencing tools
For wire, field or electric fences:
- Fence pliers to cut wire, pull and set staples, and splice
- Wire stretcher or come-along to tension wire
- Wire crimping tool and splice connectors
- Electric fence tester and insulators for electric systems
- Bolt cutters or a hacksaw for chain link and heavy wire
Safety
Wear safety glasses, work gloves and sturdy footwear. Use hearing protection around power tools and augers. Treated lumber dust should not be inhaled, so use a dust mask when cutting it. Digging and heavy lifting are physically demanding, so take breaks and lift with care.
Frequently asked questions
What wood should I use to build a fence?
Common choices are pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood and other rot-resistant species, depending on your region. Treated lumber rated for ground contact is generally used for posts. Cedar and similar species resist decay naturally and are popular for pickets and boards, but cost more. Local availability and budget often decide the choice.
How deep should a fence post be?
There is no single answer. A commonly cited rule of thumb is to bury about one third of the post length, and many guides also say at least about two feet, but depth depends on your fence height, soil, wind exposure and frost line. Local building codes or fence manufacturer instructions take priority. For a tall post, such as a 20 foot one, this would be a structural question best checked with a professional or local code.
How much does a 100 foot fence cost?
Costs vary widely with material, height, region, labor and whether you hire a contractor. Wood, vinyl, chain link and metal all have different price ranges, and gates, terrain and removal of an old fence add to the total. Get several local quotes and price the materials yourself to compare. Doing it yourself reduces labor cost but may add tool rental.
What tools do I need to rent?
Many people rent a power auger and a post driver and own the rest. If you have only a few posts to set, a manual digger and digging bar may be enough.